Monday, May 15, 2017

box with a secret drawer tutorial

Hi friends.  I have another tutorial for you.  I thought it would be fun to make a little box with a pull out drawer inside.  I started with a white one, and then added some pretty paper and a flower on the outside of the box.  I also made one from some heavy designer paper with a cream colored drawer inside.  The only tools you need are a ScorPal or other scoring tool, scissors, a 1/2" corner rounder & a 1/2" circle punch.


For the drawer, you need a 6-1/8"x7-7/8" piece of card stock.  Score each side at 7/8" and 1-3/4".  Marked in green on the diagram below.

On the short sides, cut on all 4 scores to the 2nd cross score.  On the long sides, cut on the outer scores to the 2nd cut; cut on the inner scores to the 1st cut.  This will remove the 3 corner squares, creating tabs.  Cuts are marked in black.  The highlighted areas are being cut away. 

The sides of the drawers will be double for added durability.  Cut the tabs and the outer sections at a slight angle.  It should look like this.

Valley fold all scores.  Bring the small tabs to the inside and glue them to the adjacent panels on the ends of the drawer.  Then glue all the remaining panels to the inside of the drawer.  The tabs will be hidden between the layers.  You can add pretty paper to the sides and inside bottom of the drawer, if desired. 

For the box, you need an 8-1/2"x7-1/2" piece of card stock.  On the long side, score at 1", 3-3/4", 4-3/4", and 7-1/2".

On the short side, score at 1", 5-1/2", and 6-1/2".

Referring to the diagram below, cut on the score lines as shown, creating tabs and removing highlighted areas.

Cut the small square tabs at a slight angle.  Valley fold all scores.  Use a 1/2" corner rounder to round the corners on the piece extending at the bottom of the diagram.  (I forgot to do that before taking a picture.) 

Fold the left edge in at the 1st score, add adhesive to that folded panel, bring the right side of box over to the edge and flatten to form a tube.  If you are decorating the outside of the box, it's better to do so before you glue the end closed.  However, it is possible to decorate after the box is all put together.  That's what I did. 

Glue the tabs to the outside of the end panel, and then glue the 2nd end panel over the tabs, hiding them between the panels.

On the open end where the flap tucks in, punch a half circle notch in the top panel.  This will make it easier to open the box and pull out the drawer.

I added a flower and leaves to the top of the box.

And here it is with the drawer tucked inside.

On the second one, I added the same paper to the inside and outside of the drawer.

Here they are closed.  When you open the box, finding a drawer inside is a fun surprise.  The dimensions of the box are 4-1/2"x2-3/4"x1".  The drawer is about 1/8" smaller in each direction. 

I hope you've enjoyed my tutorial and make lots of boxes with secret drawers inside.

Thank you so much for taking time to visit today. 

Saturday, May 6, 2017

prism pop up tent card tutorial

Hi friends.  Would you believe I have another tutorial for you?  I saw this fun pop up card in an ad, and I just knew that I had to figure it out and make one, or two, or...  well, you know how that goes.  

There are a lot of photos, because I think it helps to explain things, and I don't have a clue how to make a video.  So, here we go.  

As I figured out the mechanism to make the card work, I also wanted to make sure that it would mail as an A2 card, so that is the basis for all the measurements.  

You will need: 
card stock for the prism part of the card: "x 8½" (1) - groovy guava used here
card stock for pull tab A: 5¼"x2-5/8" (1) - groovy guava used here
card stock for pull tab B: 5¾"x2-5/8" (1) - groovy guava used here
pattern paper for layers on pull tabs: 5"x2-3/8" (2) - dictionary pages used here
stamped card stock for layers on prism: 4"x2¼" (2) - dictionary pages used here
ScorPal
Fiskars cutting tool (or craft knife & mat)
adhesive
corner rounder 

I made this one earlier in the week, posted it on Splitcoaststampers, and got a number of requests for instructions.  Hence, the tutorial. 
Place the prism piece on your ScorPal with the long side on top and score at 2-1/2", 5", and 7-1/2".  Mountain fold all scores and round the corners.  Although they will not show on the finished card, rounding the corners helps the mechanism work smoothly.  I used a 1/2" corner chomper.  I'm using white card stock for many of the photos, since it easier to see the folds.  I marked them with green. 

Place pull tab B on your ScorPal with the long side on top and score at 1/2". 


On the prism piece, at 1-1/4", 2-1/2", and 7-1/2", cut a slot from 3/4" to 3-1/2" (marked in black).  

Lay the prism piece so the smallest panel is on the right and the folds are valley (this is the inside of the prism).  Adhere the left end of pull tab A to the small panel of the prism, centering the edge along the slot.  For the mechanism to work properly, be sure everything is straight. 

Before attaching pull tab B, it helps if you fold over pull tab A and mark the edges where pull tab B will be placed.  (next 2 photos - note the green horizontal marks) 

With the 1/2" panel of pull tab B to the right, align the fold with the slotted fold on the left of the prism, again centering along the slot (if you marked as above, you will be placing the 1/2" panel between the marks).  Adhere the 1/2" panel to the right of the slot.  

This is what is should look like now.  


And standing up.  

Now is the time to add your layers to the pull tabs.  They will go on the sides that face the center.  Once the mechanism is in place, these will face the front of the card.  I stamped on a dictionary page, using branches and leaf lines (SU sets). 

Tuck pull tab B (left one) through the slot under pull tab A.  

Tuck pull tab A from the outside through the slot on the opposite end and back out the next slot.  

Turn the card over to the front.  You can now see the ends of the pull tabs.  Make sure any directional design is in the correct position when placing the front layers on the card. 

Add your stamped card stock layers to the front of the prism.  I stamped a Hero Arts image on a dictionary page and painted the image with Koi watercolor paints and a water brush.  

Pull both tabs to open the card and stand up the prism.  

This card will stand on its own.  

This is how it looks from the top and the back.  

After I got this far, I decided I wanted to sponge the edges with vintage photo distress ink, so I opened the card back up in order to do the edges of the pull tabs.  Here is my finished card. 

To close the card, you simply push the pull tabs back towards the center and the card will flatten to fit in an envelope.  

I hope you enjoyed my tutorial and will try making this very fun, interactive card.  If you have any questions or confusion with the instructions, please feel free to email me. 

Thanks so much for taking time to visit today. 

Friday, April 28, 2017

house boxes tutorial

Hi friends.  Sorry it's been so long since I've posted.

The last couple of days I've been working on a little box - shaped like a house.  I know there are some dies out there that you can use to create something similar, but I was sure I could make one without a die.

I remember my dad making little wooden houses and other buildings from 2x4's for my siblings and myself when we were children.  He painted them, including windows and doors.  These little boxes remind me of those.

I wasn't sure what size to make, so I started with a prototype from a JoAnn's flyer, which was 6"x11".  I ended up cutting a half inch off the end.
But, I really wanted it a bit taller, not a lot, just a half inch, so I ended up using card stock that was 6-1/2"x10-1/2".  On the long side, score at 3", 5", 8", and 10".  I used a green marker to show the score lines. 
Then turn 1/4 turn to the left and score at 4" and 6".
Turn 1/2 turn and at 5", mark the top edge, and score across the 2" panels and the 1/2" panel.
Turn 1/4 turn to the left and mark the top edge at 1-1/2" and 6-1/2".
Use a straight edge and bone folder to score diagonally from these marks as shown in the next diagram.
You need to do diagonals in both directions to form the roof peaks.  This is what your score lines should look like. 
Next, cut on all the vertical scores; from the bottom up to the 2nd cross score, and from the top down to the 1st cross score.  The cut lines are in black. 
At this point, you will need to trim away the sections that are shaded below.
On the 3 bottom tabs and the side tab, trim at a slight angle to make fitting easier.  Your house should now look like this.
I proceeded to put the box together and forgot to stamp it.  You really want to do that while it is still flat.  You may want to add designer paper instead of stamping, or get really creative with mixed media.  Any dimensional embellishments can wait until the house is all together. 

Once you have the sides stamped or decorated, you can start putting it together.  I flip it over; fold the 2" and 1/2" panels toward the center.  Using whatever adhesive you choose (I used Tombow Mono multi glue) by putting adhesive on the 1/2" tab.  Fold over the farthest panel and press onto the tab.
To form the roof area, the angled tabs are adhered to the straight flaps.  It is easiest to put them on top rather than underneath.  They will get covered by the roof, so they will not show. 
For the roof, cut a piece of card stock 2"x4-1/4"; score at 2-1/8".  I embossed this one in my Tim Holtz notebook embossing folder, and then inked it with vintage photo distress ink.  You can use any embossing folder you choose, or make shingles using a border punch or die.  I know I want to make one with corrugated cardboard for a roof.  You'll see another house below with shingles using Tim's vintage rooftops die.   
Glue the rooftop onto the house.  It does not have any overhang.  If you want that, you need to cut this piece a bit larger.
Close the house box at the bottom.  Now you can add any other decorations you wish.
I added the designer paper after I had the house all glued together, but it would have been much easier to do it first.  I only added embellishments to one side.  The finished size is 4" high, 3" wide, and 2" deep. 
Here's one I made from the same card stock, but stamped the sides.
And another one from designer card stock.  This is the one with the shingles.
And here they are all together.
I hope you like my tutorial and will try these.  This will make a nice gift box or you could make a whole village.  I know I will be making more.

Thank you so much for stopping by.